Looking after a wrap or PPF

The first two weeks

The adhesive on both wrap film and PPF keeps curing for days after fitting, and the film itself is still settling into edges and recesses. For the first week do not wash the car at all. For the second, a gentle hand wash only, and keep water pressure away from every edge. PPF can show small water pockets or a faint haze under the film in the first days; that is moisture from fitting and it clears as the film cures. If it has not cleared after a fortnight, come back and we will look.

Do not use a car park roller wash or a jet wash in that period, and avoid parking under trees where bird lime will land on film that cannot yet be cleaned hard.

Washing, for the life of the film

• Hand wash with two buckets and a soft mitt. Rinse first to lift grit, wash top to bottom, and change the mitt if it hits the ground.
• Use a pH-neutral shampoo. Traffic film removers, degreasers and anything labelled strong or citrus should not go near vinyl.
• Pressure washers are fine on the panels if you keep the lance a good distance away, use a wide fan and never point it along an edge, a seam or a cut line. Up close and at an angle it will lift film.
• Dry with a plush microfibre towel or a blower. Water spots mark satin and matte finishes if they are left to dry in the sun.
• No brushes. Roller washes with brushes will scuff gloss film and can catch edges. Touchless washes are acceptable, though the chemicals are usually stronger than we would choose.

Finish-specific rules

Gloss wrap can take a spray sealant or a wax designed for vinyl, and a light-pressure hand polish will reduce swirls. Do not machine polish it: the film is thin and the heat and cut of a machine pad will burn through or haze it.

Satin and matte wrap: nothing that adds shine, ever. No wax, no polish, no quick detailer with gloss enhancers, no tyre dressing overspray. Use a matte-specific shampoo and a matte sealant if you want protection. A glossy patch on a satin panel is permanent.

PPF: the top coat likes a coating or sealant made for PPF and does not mind a gloss detailer. Warm water encourages the self-healing top coat to close fine marks. Ceramic coatings can be applied over PPF and work well; a coating over a satin wrap is possible but must be a matte-safe product.

The things that damage film

• Bird lime, tree sap and insect remains. The acids etch film faster than they etch lacquer. Soften with warm water and lift, the same day if you can.
• Fuel splashes at the filler. Wipe them immediately; petrol softens vinyl adhesive.
• Winter road salt left for weeks. Rinse the lower panels and sills regularly between December and March.
• Scrapers on frosted glass that slip onto the film. Use de-icer or warm water instead.
• Sticker residue removers, tar removers and strong solvents. If something is stuck to the film, ask before attacking it.
• Parking with one side always in the sun. Film fades evenly if the whole car sees the same light; a car parked the same way every day for years can end up two shades.

If an edge lifts

Do not press it back down with a thumb or try to glue it. A lifted edge caught early can usually be re-set with heat and the right tool in a few minutes, and a wrap we fitted is covered by our written warranty for exactly that. Pressing it down traps dirt underneath and turns a five-minute fix into a panel re-wrap. Take a photo, keep the car away from pressure washers, and get in touch.

The same goes for a chip or a tear in PPF. The film has done its job; the paint under it is fine. A damaged section can be cut back and replaced without touching the rest of the panel, which is far cheaper than the paint repair the film just saved you.

A short version to keep in the glovebox

• No wash for a week, gentle for another.
• Two buckets, pH-neutral shampoo, soft mitt, dry properly.
• Pressure washer at a distance, never along an edge.
• Satin and matte: nothing shiny, ever.
• Bird lime and fuel off the same day.
• Edge lifting? Photo, no thumbs, call us.